Recently, two sets of the most seriously, and I use that word deliberately, exciting zero alcohol beverages happened to fall into my hands. They have a number of things in common: they’re made by people who prioritise flavour over trend; they’re about indulging in pleasure rather than abstaining from it; they’re made with high-quality ingredients; they’re the result of much home-based trial and error; the fundamental idea behind them is positive – to build and add rather than strip and take away; and, most importantly, they’re not trying to be alcohol-free wines or spirits.

Daily Mail wine writer Matthew Jukes is obsessed with fashion, he tells me. So when he ended up sitting next to Sally Singer, at the time creative director of American Vogue, and they swapped stories of how to cope with moderating alcohol consumption during working hours in two industries where alcohol was an everyday part of the working week, he wasn’t only star-struck. It set him thinking.

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